![]() I also have several modern PC 890s (including one permanently installed in my router table), but they have a totally different base design. I frequently used either the depth gauge ring or a simple ruler held against the router base/table and then read off the depth directly against the bit's cutting edge.įor many years it was my only router and was well used both freehand and in a router table, and never any issues setting it up for precise cuts. You can also use the depth gauge ring on the router base to make fine adjustments by initially zeroing the ring out (after adjusting the bit to be flush at zero depth using a piece of wood or aluminum as a feeler gauge) with the vertical score line in the motor base, then rotate the motor in the base by the desired measurement on the depth gauge ring (if things have not changed then it should be calibrated in 1/64" units IIRC). Judging from recent photos online I do not see any obvious changes made to the base or the adjustment over the intervening years, so the new models should work just the same as the older units. You may have some issues if the base clamping adjustment is left extremely loose as you will then be fighting gravity, but if you adjust it to allow a light friction fit then the adjustment will stay put while you set it and lock down the base. Iin fact, I found it quite straightforward in that regard - my experience was quite different in that regard. The PC 690 was my very first router, I can not say that I ever had any problems making precise depth adjustments. I did not receive the same quality of help when I needed it for one of my Porter Cable tools. ![]() I have also talked to Leigh's technical service department and was very impressed with the help that I received. Leigh also offers the very best manuals in the business and if you follow the directions in their manual you will make a perfect, or nearly so, dovetail joint on your first try. They both work the same and produce very accurate dovetail joints. The only real difference is that the Super Series jigs use stamped steel frames for lower cost of manufacture and the Pro jigs, like my D4R, use extruded and machined aluminum to build the frames. I own the Leigh D4R jig and couldn't want a better dovetail jig, but Leigh now offers a cheaper alternative in their Super Series dovetail jigs. Yes, they cost a bit more, but they will offer you so much more in capability. You should look at both the better Porter Cable adjustable dovetail jigs and the Leigh Super dovetail jigs before you decide to buy this jig. The adjustable jig will let you make any length joint up to the length capability of the jig with as many dovetails as you want and at any spacing that you want. ![]() A non adjustable jig will force you to make joints on equal increments depending on the width of the comb increment. Their new version dovetail jig has adjustable fingers like the Leigh jigs, so you can vary the dovetail spacing. The combs that control the router position are not adjustable, which is fine if you buy all of the different combs that you will ever want with the jig, because I doubt that these jigs will be available much longer.
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